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#91 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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#92 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Just starting to take my headlights off now...
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2016 (MY17) Ford Mondeo Titanium EcoBoost (Moondust Silver)...more power please! |
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#93 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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So all installed with no issues...
The hardest part was putting the Drivers Side Headlight back in. I have left the passenger light off as I will be doing the wiring in the morning. Once again guys, thanks for your instructions... ![]()
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#94 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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Same here. They certainly give off a good light..very happy.
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#95 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Ok, so mine is wired up and working.
However...it appears that my DRL's are not very bright, plus they are not dimming! It is like they are in "reduced / dimmed" mode all of the time. Not sure what the problem is. So instead of being 100% intensity, then reducing to 70% when lights are on. Mine appear to be 70% all the time, not matter if headlights are on or not... I started by using Pin 10 as per above, however it is for the "dip beam" I used Pin 5 as it is for the main beam. Pin 12 is for side lights. Pin 3 is actually for the Headlight Levelling. Am I right in saying the following (UK - AUS); - Sidelights = Parkers - Main Bean = Headlights - Dip Beam = High Beam Or do I have the above around the wrong way and it should be Pin 5??? But would that have any effect on the lights being a constant low intensity, rather than a high intensity that then dims... I hope the above makes sense... Glenn
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#96 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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I just googled it...
Main Beam = High Beam Dipped Beam = Low Beam (headlights) Sidelights = Parkers Passenger Side Connector; Pin 12 = Parkers Pin 5 = High Beams Pin 10 = Low Beam Pin 7 = Ground Pin 1 = Headlight Levelling Pin 3 = Headlight Levelling Pin 11 = Ground Source for above; Haynes Manual Apr 2007 to 2012 So looks like I will try Pin 5 again and see if that helps...
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#97 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Quote:
Isn't blue the headlight trigger and Yellow for Acc / ignition? Happy to discuss...
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#98 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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Quote:
However, it sounds to me like you need to have your yellow DRL wire going into the headlamp pin and your blue going into the ACC. I note that some instructions at this site: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...550251629.html state that "the yellow wire connect to headlamp wire, or connect to side lamp controlling wire, the blue wire connect to ACC wire"... but with my DRLs it was yellow to ACC and blue to headlamp Pin 10 wire... confusing, but one of the two methods will work! Last edited by Greane01; 08-09-2012 at 05:09 PM. |
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#99 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Quote:
I will keep you up to date!
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#100 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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I took a quick pic of the DRLs on full and on dim
![]() To make it easier with testing the fuse box/headlamp locations we soldered the end of the yellow wire and blue wire to give them a bit of strength; this made it easier to jam into the holes! It's much easier with two people, as one can be switching on/off the headlights and the other can change wire locations and watch the DRLs! Once we'd identified the right pin on the headlamp loom (i.e. when the DRL dimmed upon activation of the headlight low beams) we paired the wire (where it comes out of the loom) to expose <5mm of copper. We then got another small piece of automotive wire (which we fitted with a female connector on one end) and wrapped that around the bare copper, soldered (optional!), and wrapped with electrical tape. The DRL wire (blue in my case) we fitted with a male connector and connected the two wires - this makes it easier to disconnect the wire if desired. |
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#101 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Yeah, mine look like the ones on the right all the time; dim.
I will get all sorted in the morning...
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#102 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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When It was red + ,black - then put yellow + it was dim,
When it wad red+,black - then put blue + it was bright... So then my blue went to ign & yellow to headlights...
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#103 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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So we changed around the wiring assuming the yellow and blue were around the wrong way. But not, the DRL's did not work.
I have put the wiring back to they way it was supposed to be and also used Pin10 as described above. All works, however DRL's are still stuck in the "dim" mode with only 70% light output. In fact for Daytime Running Lights, you can hardly see them during the day with the sun etc. So the only thing I can think of is the relay must be faulty and it is stuck in a open / closed position thus not allowing the DRL's to increase intensity to 100%, then dim back to 70% when headlights are on. Does anyone have the relays in a position that they could take a picture of the specs (diagram) on top of the realy so I can source some replacements. I have had the car in pieces so many time this weekend, plus my relay is burried under the fron cross member. I just thought if somone else had the relay diagram handy, I could grab them before I ri the car apart again. Glenn
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#104 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Either way you should hear the relays 'click' when you switch the DRLs on and another 'click' when you activate the relay to dim the lights. One thing I just thought of though: have you confirmed you actually have two relays in your harness? If you look at the photo from my previous post (below) you can see that there are definitely two relay boxes in the harness (although it is possible to get two relays into one box!) ![]() After you have tried the above, and they still don't change brightness, it might be worth emailing the seller to ensure they are actually designed to dim? Last edited by Greane01; 09-09-2012 at 11:22 AM. |
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#105 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Quote:
I hear one click when ignition turned on; DRLS on. But I do not hear another click when headlights are turned on. So that must be tha answer. But my issue is that they have never been 100% brightness, only 70% brightness. So maybe the relay is stuck in a closed / open position and not allowing it to reach the required 100% intensity. Could you please tell me the digits on your relay, I can't quite make it out; 86, 87 85 and 30? Glenn
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#106 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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#107 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Cheers.
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Drives: MY11 MC Ford Mondeo Zetec TDCI Daily: 2008 VW Golf GTI |
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#108 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Cheers |
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#109 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Thank-you, Appreciate that !
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Drives: MY11 MC Ford Mondeo Zetec TDCI Daily: 2008 VW Golf GTI |
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#110 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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I ordered mine from http://www.car-cares.com/mondeo-spar...set-sku-pieces {plus some other parts**
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#111 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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I have purchased two new resistor relays, I will attempt to re-wire this afternoon. Fingers crossed!!!
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#112 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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Best of luck,,hope you get them working the way they should
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#113 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 504
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Ok, so DRL's are firing on all cylinders!!!
Everything works fine. Lights are now 100%, then reduce to 70% with headlights on! ![]() Turned out that in the Relay Terminals / Wiring Loom the Yellow and Blue were in the wrong terminal. ![]() Very impressed... I VERY BIG Thankyou to all that have provided assistance over the past few days! Glenn
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#114 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
Posts: 50
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#115 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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That's great to hear.... So what is the next project.???
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#116 | ||||
Captain Malcolm Reynolds
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,830
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Well well well, what do we have here?
![]() Now the main problem I have is them not dimming with headlights, they extinguish. My wiring seems to differ from yours in that I have no yellow wire - I have a red 12v line, a black earth line, and a blue line which I hooked into pin 10 (low beams). As soon as the low beams came on, DRLs went out altogether. So we've gone and lopped the blue line, as long as the car is running the DRLs just stay on at 100% brightness. I may need to look into another relay kit for it that has the dimming capability. Massive thanks to everyone who has attempted the mod and posted assistance though - I needed it to get the bumper off, and for wiring hook up points - couldn't have done it without you guys. Much love for my Mondeo Brethren!
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Currently: 2014 Mazda6 GT (Daily) and 1999 Mazda MX5 (Fun Car) Previously: 2001 Ford Escape XLT; 2010 MC Mondeo; 1984 FD LTD; 2001 AU2 Falcon Forte; 2005 LS Focus Zetec; 1988 RE Colt; 1982 RB Colt; 1974 KE20 Corolla Quote:
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#117 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Canberra
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#118 | ||||
Captain Malcolm Reynolds
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,830
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Thanks mate
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Currently: 2014 Mazda6 GT (Daily) and 1999 Mazda MX5 (Fun Car) Previously: 2001 Ford Escape XLT; 2010 MC Mondeo; 1984 FD LTD; 2001 AU2 Falcon Forte; 2005 LS Focus Zetec; 1988 RE Colt; 1982 RB Colt; 1974 KE20 Corolla Quote:
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#119 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 15
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Hi all..Many thanks to everybody for your detailed info.and photos on this topic...extremely useful. It would seem that the DRL's sourced by Greane01 were the most straight forward to wire in to that sophisticated electrical system.Don't want to think about the angst if something got a bit back to front in that wiring system! Thanks again to all.
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#120 | ||||
Captain Malcolm Reynolds
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,830
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I bit the bullet and re-clamped the wire to the headlight wire tonight. The DRLs were just that little bit too bright with the headlights at night, I didn't want to attract too much defect attention (my windows are also tinted too dark to be legal) so now when I turn my headlights on, the DRLs go out altogether.
Might look into some sort of relay system that will dim them instead of extinguishing them so I can keep them on at night without them being stupid bright. And by "Stupid bright" I mean at night, they're just that little bit blinding if you cop them in your eyes at the right angle. In the following photo, there are NO lights active other than the DRLs. ![]() Add the headlights to the mix and you can imagine why I decided that it was better for them to go out at night time!
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Currently: 2014 Mazda6 GT (Daily) and 1999 Mazda MX5 (Fun Car) Previously: 2001 Ford Escape XLT; 2010 MC Mondeo; 1984 FD LTD; 2001 AU2 Falcon Forte; 2005 LS Focus Zetec; 1988 RE Colt; 1982 RB Colt; 1974 KE20 Corolla Quote:
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